Italian Perfection

Ahh, Florence!   We have been in Siena now for a day and half and I'm thinking back to our final day in Florence - it's very hard to even remember details from two days ago, let alone from this morning!   

This does not need a description!

It is a 2 hour flight from Athens to Pisa, and it went by very fast, since I made a friend with the young lady who was sitting next to me.  She was from Australia, but of Greek descent, and traveling to meet a family that she is a Nanny for, in Italy.   Charming girl!

Marmari Paradise

We made it back!  Last year, after a long exploratory drive through the mountains and coastline near Areopoli, we discovered a gem of a resort, tucked into an alcove that is surrounded by peaks on both sides.   Marmari Paradise seemed very interesting to us, but we had not prepared to stay the night anywhere, so we tucked it into the archives of our dusty old minds and tried to remember to seek it out again some day.

Today once again the fabulous coffee helped us awaken from our long sleep.

Unlike the night before, there was no loud music being broadcast from the Platia in the heart of Petrina. That evening, there had been a preliminary celebration, leading up to the great feast of August 15th, a special day for all Greeks when they celebrate the Virgin Mary. From afar it sounded like some great Bouzouki playing was happening, and the voices weren't half bad either.  :)  Drifting in and out of sleep, we would hear snippets of music, and then every hour the church bell would count the time out to us, and we would count along with it, in a drowsy state, awakening again when it chimed the half hour.

On this morning Aris's Mom wanted to go to Mavrovouni Beach, a place where she must have spent time as a young girl, and then in later years (we are talking the Sixties or so) she and Patera must have visited this place and hung out there with friends and family alike.  It is not a beach we gravitate to, however, as it is stoney and has quite a drop off! And the fish bite at my birthmark! It's just outside of Gytheio and boasts a very long shoreline, with various hotels and the requisite beachside restaurants. Some establishments are pretty tiny and others are run in a more touristy fashion.  [I learned early in life though, that sometimes the best food can be had in places that are not fancy at all. Case in point, when I was only about 10 years old, parents of a school friend of mine had a restaurant in Toronto's Chinatown.   Her name was Rosanna Pon, and I wish I knew where to find her now.  Their place was on a non-descript side street, and we had to go down a flight of stairs to the basement. And there it was that I probably ate my first shrimp, in a black bean sauce. I have never forgotten it! We had spent some time earlier this morning in the centre of Gytheio, dealing with some paperwork on behalf of Aris's Dad, that needed to get done - so that is where I sat and waited, using the Wifi at the local Cafe called Touristiko, sipping a Frappe, and I uploaded my first Blog. Mavrovouni was bustling with people and cars and we were not sure exactly where best to stop, but given that Aris's Dad simply needed to sit down somewhere fast, we lucked out and got a table on the beach, across the road from the building.  I wasn't at all sure that I would end up writing about it, because I don't think I can write about everything, but as our meal progressed, it became worthy.  Still feeling a bit woozy, I was again looking for a Gyro to eat and again, I did not find one. The Xoriatiki was ordered and they brought bread and water instantly.  I cannot generally eat bread by itself, and I really wanted to eat it right away... so I asked the waiter to please bring some Olive Oil. Well, what a faux pas, according to Aris!   Apparently the Ladi comes with the rest of the meal, it is not really for the bread at all...?!  I asked for it politely, in Greek, (Exitai to Ladi, Para Kalo?) and did well, but the waiter still looked at me as though I had three heads.  He brought it anyway, and fast on its heels came the first plates we had ordered.  Of course we started with Xoriatiki, and we all felt like we really needed some greens and veggies, so we got a couple more dishes that qualified.   Aris's Mom and Aunts often make a dish they call Bamgies, (Pronounced Bamyez) which you would recognize as Okra. They are stewed and served with onions and peppers and a great sauce results simply from the onions and oil. The ones here are smaller and shaped a bit differently than at home, but are essentially the same thing.  Along with this came a plate of mixed vegetables, consisting of a couple of carrots, potatoes, and Xorta.  (Just give this X a big old H sound but make it guttural and you'll have it right.)   I generally do not like the 'greens' that go along with traditional Greek food, but hubby often likes to cook Rapini, and makes me eat it...ha ha.   He boils it up and adds flaked red pepper and whole garlic to the water, and then I drown it in balsamic glaze, to choke it down, as it is often quite bitter.  I won't touch Dandelions at all!  (Especially because I envision them having been dug up at the side of the road, and don't tell me you haven't seen people doing this!)   But this Xorta, was the REAL THING and I loved it!!  I am NOT a veggie fan, never have been.   But I ate it, really enjoyed it, and now want it again.  Aris's Mom ordered a plateful of small fish, deep fried, and this I would not touch.  Nope, nope, nope, nope.  But the 'piece de resistance' was again a meat & potatoes kind of thing, suggested after declining my request for a Gyro.  An assorted platter of grilled meats, including pork fillets and ribs, grilled chicken, Loukaniko sausage, fried Saganaki cheese, and a few french fries.  Yup, yup, yup!!  This went down easy and because it was the last dish that was brought out, we were all fairly full, so again, the leftovers came home, and Aris's Dad will reap the benefit of that. We swam briefly at Mavrovouni and lo and behold, there were some people there that recognized Patera and they came over and greeted him warmly and with much fondness.  A joy!  It must have been his wife's heart's wish, that they would run into someone they would know, and it happened. The vista is incredible at this beach.  Looking East towards Areopoli and beyond this to Marmari, the mountains are stunning and the clouds towering above were sure to have been thunderheads.  We discovered Marmari last year on one of our long drives, but did not stay and eat, or stay overnight.  This time will be different.  Stay tuned for our adventure to Marmari!]

The wind cropped up and this having been a long adventure already for Aris's Dad, we headed out at about 2pm.  They are all sleeping now...and I am plotting on where I am going to find that Gyro, once and for all.  After showering and relaxing a bit at the house, and a visit from the people who live downstairs, sharing our Karpouzi (watermelon!) with them, Aris and I tried to decide where to head for dinner.  It's a process - we go out in the morning, have coffee at Touristiko down in Gytheio, hit the beach, have lunch, come back to the village, clean up and/or sleep a bit, and then figure out what we want to do for the evening. I have finally adjusted to the schedule here.  You don't go looking for something before a certain time of day.  People don't eat dinner until starting at around 8pm.  The reason is simple. The heat can be exhausting and in the afternoon, they rest.  Then, liveliness comes back, the dinners start, the Platias become the place to be and to be seen, and the music and dancing can go into the wee hours.  We were not sure whether Aris's Theo (Uncle) Kosti would be available, but we decided to head up the mountain to Arna for dinner.  It is about 15 kms, but it takes almost 30 minutes to drive it, because of the winding mountain roads.   We passed through several other smaller villages on the way there, but Arna is an actual 'destination'.  I had a bit of a discussion with Aris on what other villages we've passed through, that are such authentic, unpretentious attractions.  [We came up with one other, which we had found a few years ago, called Langadia, high in the mountains near Olympia.]  Arna has much to offer, as it is on the second highest peak of the Taygetos range, and has a stunning view right down to Gytheio and of the surrounding mountain tops, a generous and charming Platia, the centre of which has the largest Plain Tree I've ever seen, and also some surrounding shops which are full of handicrafts, and a bakery.  I only took one iPhone photo of the Platia last night, but will dig up my better photos from last year and post them in a slide show below.  On our way back down the mountain after dinner, I perked up again, watching for wildlife along the side of the road.  I think we actually saw what would have been a small pig or a boar, waddling off into the woods!  At one point, we stopped, turned off the van completely, and just took an awestruck look at the stars.  Milky way and every constellation you could imagine, was seemingly hovering just within reach.  Incredible!!

Not only did we have Bougatsa for breakfast, but also Greek yogurt and honey, a boiled egg, and some toast with Apricot jam that was also purchased last night at the bakery we visited.   Bougatsa (the g is kind of a soft g, in the back of your throat and the accent is on the first 'a') is not too well known in North America, but in Greece it is a readily available 'street food' and one of the best treats around. I discovered it on our first trip to Greece, when we stopped for the first time on our way to the village from the airport...and I was hooked.  I learned quickly to say "Exeitai Bougatsa?" at each bakery we happened upon.  If you get there early, you will find it, but later in the afternoon, odds are it will all have been snapped up. It is layer upon layer of flaky filo pastry with a thick, creamy custard filling, and often topped with icing sugar, and/or cinnamon.  I have tried to make it at home...and failed miserably. (Note to self, to try again!)

The coffee we have up in the village has become our special tradition. Mom tried to get us to brew regular coffee in her coffee maker, but we both insisted that we percolate some Greek coffee in her old Corningware pot. It still works perfectly, bubbling up into the glass lid when it is ready, but the lid is a bit loose and I have to be careful not to burn myself with the steam. Aris makes it better than I. It takes a long time but the result is strong and sweet and is truly the best thing that we taste each morning.  I add 'Noy Noy' to it, which is a sweetened condensed milk, and oh so good!

Sitting on the balcony which wraps around the back of the house with a view of the mountains, we often have our coffee as the morning coolness subsides and the heat begins to descend, the tzitzikas beginning their sonorous hum.  We finished the rest of our unpacking, showered, and headed for the beach.  Our favourite beach in all of the places we have visited so far in Greece, is just outside of Gytheio, and is called Glyfada. It is sandy and warm, with a gradual slope into the sea, a view of cliffs in one direction, Gytheio in the distance, mountains on the other side that reach down to the tip of the Peloponnesos at Elafonisos and Neapoli, and a shipwreck that purportedly was left after being run aground by some smugglers, some 40 years ago.  We have watched it disintegrate over the years, each time it seems to have sunk lower into the sand, and is now tipping precariously, with its hull completely rotted through. There are signs warning swimmers not to approach the wreck.  It provides a wonderful addition to the scenery around it, but one day, we figure it will have to be towed away.  If one walks past the boat a little further down the beach, there you'll find flat rocks with little tidal pools to investigate, and you will be quite alone as a couple.

Glyfada beach has a restaurant and bar that is shielded from behind by the cliff, and sits overlooking the sparkling waters with the view of the ship and of Gytheio.  It was busy today, so we ate a little later than the lunch hour, having had a late breakfast anyway.  We sat first at the bar, where they play pop music and serve only drinks...and they have wifi available. So, the requisite first photos were popped up on Facebook, as we enjoyed the first Frappe of our trip. I ordered in Greek, as my husband had gone to the men's room, stumbling over my words and laughing with the waitress as she repeated my order back to me in English. After soaking in some sun, and swimming and floating around for a while, as well as time spent snapping a few quick photos, it was time for lunch. Again, it was Xoriatiki, with rustic bread and olive oil, and this time we added calamari.  Of course we should have had it grilled but we knew that this particular place offered a lightly deep fried version, fresh and tender.  There is no rubber happening here!  It was served with half a lime and this is a wonderful, savoury addition to the dish.  Perhaps we paid a bit of a premium for this meal but it was well worth it this time, and we will be back. For the salad, and calamari, and only water, I think we spent around 19 Euros. Aris explains to me that bread, while not really noted on a bill, is included by virtue of a 'seating fee' which usually amounts to about 1,50 Euro per person.  And tipping really is not expected, a tip is generally built into the price.  At any rate, they offer a full menu, including Moussaka, stuffed peppers, and more. Some of the best food we've sampled, has been at this location.   It is likely that our tastebuds are somehow titillated also by the view, making everything seem that much more sumptuous.  We didn't last long at the beach today, still jet lagged a bit, and worrying about our parents back in the village, so we were heading home by about 4pm.

Below is a wee slide deck with a few photos from Glyfada Beach and Gytheio.

The Xoriatiki.
"We make it differently here", he said. Ohhhh yeah!!!

Not only did we have Bougatsa for breakfast, but also Greek yogurt and honey, a boiled egg, and some toast with Apricot jam that was also purchased last night at the bakery we visited. &nbsp; Bougatsa (the g is kind of a soft g, in the back of your throat and the accent is on the first 'a') is not too well known in North America, but in Greece it is a readily available 'street food' and one of the best treats around. &nbsp;I discovered it on our first trip to Greece, when we stopped for the first time on our way to the village from the airport...and I was hooked. &nbsp; I learned quickly to say "Exeitai Bougatsa?" at each bakery we happened upon. &nbsp; If you get there early, you will find it, but later in the afternoon, odds are it will all have been snapped up. &nbsp;It is layer upon layer of flaky filo pastry with a thick, creamy custard filling, and often topped with icing sugar, and/or cinnamon. &nbsp; I have tried to make it at home...and failed miserably. &nbsp;(Note to self, to try again!)</p> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>The coffee we have up in the village has become our special tradition. &nbsp;Mom tried to get us to brew regular coffee in her coffee maker, but we both insisted that we percolate some Greek coffee in her old Corningware pot. &nbsp;It still works perfectly, bubbling up into the glass lid when it is ready, but the lid is a bit loose and I have to be careful not to burn myself with the steam. &nbsp;Aris makes it better than I. &nbsp;It takes a long time but the result is strong and sweet and is truly the best thing that we taste each morning. &nbsp; I add 'Noy Noy' to it, which is a sweetened condensed milk, and oh so good! &nbsp;Sitting on the balcony which wraps around the back of the house with a view of the mountains, we often have our coffee as the morning coolness subsides and the heat begins to descend, the tzitzikas beginning their sonorous hum.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>We finished the rest of our unpacking, showered, and headed for the beach.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Our favourite beach in all of the places we have visited so far in Greece, is just outside of Gytheio, and is called Glyfada. &nbsp;It is sandy and warm, with a gradual slope into the sea, a view of cliffs in one direction, Gytheio in the distance, mountains on the other side that reach down to the tip of the Peloponnesos at Elafonisos and Neapoli, and a shipwreck that purportedly was left after being run aground by some smugglers, some 40 years ago.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>We have watched it disintegrate over the years, each time it seems to have sunk lower into the sand, and is now tipping precariously, with its hull completely rotted through. &nbsp;There are signs warning swimmers not to approach the wreck. &nbsp; It provides a wonderful addition to the scenery around it, but one day, we figure it will have to be towed away.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>If one walks past the boat a little further down the beach, there you'll find flat rocks with little tidal pools to investigate, and you will be quite alone as a couple. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Glyfada beach has a restaurant and bar that is shielded from behind by the cliff, and sits overlooking the sparkling waters with the view of the ship and of Gytheio. &nbsp;It was busy today, so we ate a little later than the lunch hour, having had a late breakfast anyway. &nbsp; We sat first at the bar, where they play pop music and serve only drinks...and they have wifi available. &nbsp;So, the requisite first photos were popped up on Facebook, as we enjoyed the first Frappe of our trip. &nbsp;I ordered in Greek, as my husband had gone to the men's room, stumbling over my words and laughing with the waitress as she repeated my order back to me in English. &nbsp;</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>After soaking in some sun, and swimming and floating around for a while, as well as time spent snapping a few quick photos, it was time for lunch. &nbsp;Again, it was Xoriatiki, with rustic bread and olive oil, and this time we added calamari. &nbsp; Of course we should have had it grilled but we knew that this particular place offered a lightly deep fried version, fresh and tender. &nbsp;There is no rubber happening here! &nbsp;It was served with half a lime and this is a wonderful, savoury addition to the dish.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Perhaps we paid a bit of a premium for this meal but it was well worth it this time, and we will be back. &nbsp;For the salad, and calamari, and only water, I think we spent around 19 Euros. &nbsp;Aris explains to me that bread, while not really noted on a bill, is included by virtue of a 'seating fee' which usually amounts to about 1,50 Euro per person. &nbsp;And tipping really is not expected, a tip is generally built into the price. &nbsp;At any rate, they offer a full menu, including Moussaka, stuffed peppers, and more. &nbsp;Some of the best food we've sampled, has been at this location. &nbsp; It is likely that our tastebuds are somehow titillated also by the view, making everything seem that much more sumptuous.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>We didn't last long at the beach today, still jet lagged a bit, and worrying about our parents back in the village, so we were heading home by about&nbsp;<a href="x-apple-data-detectors://1">4pm</a>.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Below is a wee slide deck with a few photos from Glyfada Beach and Gytheio.</div> </div>

The famous wreck that makes this beach particularly scenic.

Arriving at our destination in Greece after 16 hours of travel, we napped in the village and then set out for the town of Gytheio, where we searched for a parking spot and then by default, ended up eating at the closest restaurant. &nbsp;After all the news about Greece's struggle and the situation with the economy, we were glad to see that the area seemed to be thriving with activity.</p> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Our 'nap' had actually been quite eventful, since most of the neighbours dropped by as soon as we arrived, and then a thunderstorm shook the rafters several times. &nbsp;It always takes a while to sweep out the house and let the air in, curtains billowing in the breeze. The shower was the most welcome thing!</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>The 16 hours was made up of a 9 hour flight, which we made along with my husband's parents, and then a near 5 hour road trip from Athens to the village. &nbsp;His father is more aged than his mother so he needed support and additional care navigating through the airports. &nbsp;Once on the flight, and again once seated safely in our rental van, he did not complain and we made it safely to his birthplace, the town of Petrina, in the Province of Lakonia, situated partway up a mountain, and roughly between Sparta and Gytheio. &nbsp;I took a video of him disembarking the plane, thinking sadly to myself, this is the first time he has set foot on Greek soil in almost ten years....and may be his last, however, he seems to 'go placidly amidst the noise and haste' and is doing phenomenally, given the time change...there is already talk of returning next year!&nbsp;</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Gytheio is our favourite seaside town to visit, in Greece. &nbsp;There are many quaint and charming towns, but Gytheio seems to hold a place dear in our hearts. &nbsp; &nbsp;Perhaps it is the way in which the homes are built almost on top of one another, reaching up the cliffside and arcing around the bay. &nbsp;It is easy to imagine the history that has come before. &nbsp; I often wonder at how many earthquakes it must have endured, and then marvel that the buildings still stand. &nbsp;After ten years and 5 visits to Greece, this town has not lost its impact on us.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Most restaurants in the town have a barker or someone who stands in the street to beckon you inside, with tales of their delicious cuisine and varied offering. &nbsp;This one was no exception, and we spoke to him easily in Greek and English. &nbsp;He also spoke French to the next patrons, who arrived via their sailboat, all the way from Paris. &nbsp; We took a seat across the road from the restaurant itself, right on the edge of the harbour, where a row of fishing boats were moored. &nbsp;A fisherman was busy with his nets the entire time that we dined.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Our meal started with a couple of drinks, me choosing Ouzo and my husband asking for beer. &nbsp; We will save the wine sampling for when we visit Italy! &nbsp; It was lightly raining and we endured this for several minutes, waiting for the clouds to pass. &nbsp;When they did, the sun was setting spectacularly behind the hills of Gytheio, and the towering Taygetos mountains were bathed in fire and deep purple shadow. &nbsp;We had a view of the entire town, the harbour, and from this particular spot on the pier, it was the first time we had also taken note of the mountain range in behind. &nbsp;Usually we are around a corner where they cannot be viewed from, or closer to the bottom of the hillside in the town, so they can't be seen at all from below.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>Feeling queasy after our travel, my mind was setting on eating something fairly heavy and I was looking for a Gyro with fries. &nbsp;When we found that the menu did not offer this, we almost left - my husband is always so accommodating to fulfil my heart's desire, he would have agreed to go anywhere else. &nbsp; After chatting further with the maitre d', we decided to stay, and we are so glad we did!</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>It didn't take long to settle on our choices and we called the server over. &nbsp; Craving the hearty and refreshing traditional Greek salad, we ordered Xoriatiki. &nbsp;There is no lettuce in this salad, but rather, it is almost all made of the freshest of tomatoes, with cucumber, olives, peppers, and onions, and a block of feta cheese on top, drizzled with olive oil and a good amount of oregano. &nbsp; The thick, crusty bread that accompanies it is almost always a staple that is not extra to the meal - it is expected. &nbsp; This, we immediately drench in olive oil...and it's not uncommon, neither is it considered rude, to use the bread to get the last oil and juice out of the bottom of the salad bowl.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>I chose a starter dish that spoke to me of satisfaction and some exotic treat - Shrimp saganaki - because I love both Shrimp and saganaki cheese. &nbsp; In Greece they do not serve saganaki with the flambe that we are used to in Canada. &nbsp; &nbsp;It is a salty cheese, and when paired with Shrimp in a tasty sauce, it is heaven. &nbsp; I forgot though, that they were not going to bring me some tiny shrimp, that I'm used to getting in North America. &nbsp;These were eight giant shrimp, as big as prawns, and served complete with heads, eyes, tentacles, and all their little legs. &nbsp; My husband being braver than I, ate most of the creature, whereas I opted to cut the heads off and eat only the 'tail'. &nbsp; I should have taken a photo and am kicking myself now that I did not do this. &nbsp;They had been freshly caught and were an absolute delight.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>To satisfy my need for meat and potatoes, the maitre d' suggested grilled pork and we agreed. &nbsp;He brought 6 beautifully cooked ribs that were almost like ribs but still more like a pork chop. &nbsp;They were tender and yet crispy, perfectly done, and the potatoes were thinly sliced and very lightly fried. &nbsp; The rest of the shrimp sauce went on top of the potatoes. &nbsp; We were very full, so we decided to bring the rest back to my mother in law. &nbsp;She was very grateful to have some cooked food, as we hadn't fully stocked the fridge yet, for our stay.&nbsp;</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>The meal was wonderful, and very well priced. &nbsp;The restaurant was "Cafe Ouzeri To Limani".</div> <div>For 29,50 Euros, we thought that what we had eaten was tasty, satisfying, and fun. &nbsp; Being tired and somewhat cranky, we were grateful to have found this spot that was off the beaten path and did not have the traffic and passersby that most other restaurants had. &nbsp;Before we left, it had become dark, and we also enjoyed seeing the lights twinkling in the harbour and on the buildings surrounding it.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>We walked briefly afterward, to a bakery to grab some Bougatsa - even though we knew it was not fresh at this point, we still wanted it for breakfast the next day. &nbsp; Bougatsa deserves a story all of its own.</div> <div>&nbsp;</div> <div>&nbsp;</div>